My Terminal Setup Illustration
In response to a request by one of our readers, I have illustrated my terminal setup. I have talked about terminal setups in other posts in the past, and this will be an overview of my terminal setup. Hope it helps.
My recommend is #1 Shimano Ocea 8 or EX8, #2 Sunline Jigger ULT4, #3 Super Fireline Colored. I use between PE1.5 and 3.0 for slow pitch jigging.
They stretch less than others, and they catch less water than others, promising more direct control.
Ocea EX8 is more expensive, strong, durable, and it is just a better made line. PE2.0 is 45lb (20.4kg) pound class.
Jigger ULT4 and Super Fireline are half as expensive. And they both stretch very little, less than Ocea 8 or any other 8-ply line. But not strong and not durable as Ocea EX8.
Jigger ULT4 is a 4-ply braided line. It squeaks at the guides, but that is all. Sato Sensei uses this line for light targets, especially at deepsea, because of this non-stretching property. PE2.0 is 34lb (15.5kg) class.
Super Fireline Colored is produced by Berkley Japan. Color mark is very important when you negotiate with the fish around the bottom. Fireline is a coated fused line, not braided, and that’s why it doesn’t stretch. The coating protects against friction and cuts through the water. It’s not durable as other lines, and once the coating is damaged, the line is very vulnerable. And it’s easy to backlash, a little tricky to handle. PE2.0 is 30lb (13.6kg) class. When you use this line, you should consider renewing more frequently than other lines.
PR Knot is strongly recommended to connect PE line to the leader. PR Knot maintains 100% of line strength. PE – leader connection is bound to be the weakest part of your system. Take no chances.
I use Seaguar FXR (fluoro) #8, #10, #12, #16 (from 30lb to 55lb). 8 to 10 meters usually.
The leader to the solid ring is done by TN knot.
But when I tie FC #10+ to GP ring #4, the ring is too small to go around the ring 3 times in TN knot. I do DN Knot. Go around the ring 2 times, and make the final loop twice.
The best solid ring to connect to the leader. A specially designed seamless ring that has been punched out in one piece from the metal sheet and polished from all directions. Astonishingly strong.
I use #4 usually with light setting, and #5 with heavier setting.
Split ring connects GP Ring and 1) the jig and 2) solid ring with assist hooks.
Slow pitch jig has a flat side and a fat side. You would want the assist hooks on the flat side. All Seafloor Control jigs have the eye mark on the flat side.
Hot’s toughness split ring is the most popular compact and strong split ring amongst slow pitch anglers.
I use SOM Track Split Ring #5 for the head because it’s strong against opening frequently. Seafloor Control jigs have heavy wire eye and #4 would be too small. I use Toughness Split Ring #4 for the tail hook.
I use ASS fluoro cored PE20 and PE30. They used to say fluoro-cored PE on the head of the jig, and non-cored PE on the tail of the jig. Fluoro cored assist cord stays away from tangling with the leader, but non-cored assist cord was believed to be easier to be swallowed. But recently we came to believe that fluoro-cored PE does not reduce hooking rate at the tail of the jig. Now I make all of my assist hooks with fluoro-cored PE.
I use ASS seamless polished ring 6.0mm mostly.
Hooks are mainly Jigger Light Shiwari 4/0 and 5/0 and Jigger Light Hold of the same size. I use Shiwari on the tail, Hold on the head. Hold can find more hooking. Shiwari can penetrate more. I use Hold on the head because when fish bites on the head it means the jig is lifting by the tensioned line. I like the hook to find the hooking points more and I wouldn’t worry about the penetration. I use Shiwari on the tail because when fish bites on the tail it means the jig is falling and the line is not tensioned. I like the hook to penetrate more by its own weight and avoid missing the hooking. Also Shiwari has far less chances of snagging.
>> Assembling double assist hooks
>> In-depth study on hooks for slow pitch jigging
This is my terminal tackle setup for now. I’m in my learning process, and new products come every year, so I may change it. I will try to update this page as I go alone.
- 1. SPJ (57)
- 1-1. Principles (9)
- 1-2. Techniques (11)
- 1-3. Setup (17)
- 1-4. FAQ (19)
- 1-5. Tackles (3)
- 1-6. Video Gallery (2)
- 2. Other Offshore Games (5)
- 3. Fishing Report (105)
- 3-1. Totos (25)
- 3-2. Readers (72)
- 4. Fish Cooking (19)
- 4-1. Iki-Jime (3)
- 4-2. The Art of Sashimi (5)
- 4-3. Recipe (7)
- 4-4. Seasoning (3)
- 5. Fishing Charter (6)
- Fish (12)
gee thanks a lot….finally
Is the leader should be higher in strength than the main line ? and why ?
Ahhh, a very fresh question from a logical mind.
We want to use the smallest diameter line which does not stretch, because it catches less water influence and your action will be delivered to the jig more directly. This is why we use PE line.
PE line is expensive. And you are not using PE8.0. You are getting down to PE2.5, PE2.0, or even PE1.5, by sacrificing a lot of strength in order to get more contacts. You are taking a lot of risks here. So you pay close attention to every details in your line condition and in your knots, not to lose any strength.
But PE line has its disadvantage. It’s weak to frictions. It’s weak in knots. (That is why PR knot was invented to maintain 100% strength.) So we want to use PE line for most of the part when we are fishing, but at the terminal end, where there are knots and risks to touch bottom structures, we are forced to use the fluoro leader.
You want to use the shortest lightest possible leader. Because fluoro line is much thicker in diameter and stretches much more than PE line. But you are using the leader in order to stand against bottom frictions in the first place. In this heartbreaking dilemma, you choose your leader and how long to use it.
Now if the leader is weaker than PE, the whole system doesn’t make sense, does it?
After all these efforts and risks you are taking, I don’t think you want the leader to be the weakest part of your line system.
The knots are actually the weakest part of your line system. No matter how you knot, you lose certain percentage of the line strength. (Only PR Knot to connect PE and leader has shown 100% strength.) The bottom line is, the leader is where you have knots.
I think you want the leader to be at least a little stronger than PE line.
I want to ask about the terminal setup about the position of the leader and assist hook.
What if the leader i tied to the Solid ring or GP ring where i put the hook instead of it connecting to the split ring.
Because split ring is not so strong it might get broken, of course this can only apply to the head assist hook.
Yea, that can be an idea.
But the idea of having the hook on the split ring is that it’s free to move and it can be swallowed easily.
Your leader may affect the freedom of your assist hook. I don’t know. It just may. Have you had your split ring broken? It’s very likely that you may lose split ring not because the ring is broken but because the ring is left open. If you see a split ring that doesn’t close shut, just replace with a new one.
Have you tried SOM Track Ring?
My friend had his split ring crooked he use hammer head no 7.5. But I can’t confirm whether it is left open or close shut. I haven’t found that brand in my country, any other good brand?
I use SOM Track Split Ring.
So grateful for your wonderful website and advice. Following your tips I have managed to catch some fish on Hong Kong Taiwan and Sabah Malaysia.
I have a question. As Sato Sensei recommended the less metal is better and I notice you do not use swivels. I would like to know if it is ok to tie the hooks directly onto the jig without using split rings and solid rings?
I’m glad you are enjoying slow pitch jigging.
Yes, you can knot the jig directly to the leader. But it will make it hard to switch jigs.
Ever since my successful slow pitch offshore trip, I have invested in a SOM L120N.
I have seen that you also use the SOM L120 reel with fireline PE2.5in one of your videos..
My setup is SOM L120N, Shimano EX8 PE2.5 600m, 8 meters of 50lb fluorocarbon leader, 450g to 700grams slow fall jig, targeting large Amberjacks at 120-180 m depth.
(1) Is the leader too long ?
(2)Should I go for monofilament or braided line as backing for SOM L120N ? For PE2.5 600 meters.
(3)I have a spare Spool, and I am intending to Spool it with PE4.0 x4 strands 60lb line (600meters), does it make sense t?
8 meters of leader is pretty normal. The shorter, the sharper the jig moves. The longer, the softer the jig moves. THere’s no right or wrong. You just need to tune in with the condition.
Personally I don’t pay much attention to that. If you can’t stop the fish by then, you should cut the line before the line damages the spool.
It really depends on your tactics. Personally PE3.0 is the max. Otherwise I will have too much line slack.
Anyone can help to answer these questions ?
thank you for your explanations. Just one more question about your setup.
I would like to know the difference between your setup, that uses in the head 2 solid rings and 1 split ring, and the one that uses just 1 solid ring (the one that you tight the hooks, that you also use to tight the leader) and 1 split ring (just to hang up the jigs). As far as I known:
– less metal;
– the fight with fish doesnt include the split in the fight, just solid rings and hooks directly;
– the hooks still work freely;
– you can change jigs without problems;
– cheaper cost;
– you can change hooks sizes easily;
Considering you dont usually change hooks sizes in the same frequency than you try different jigs, I think the advantages of using just one solid ring are enough to use this setup.
Am I loosing something?
Thank you, Daniel